Step 1 of the process
Core shape
Every sculpted piece starts as a tightly rolled bundle of core wool, felted with a size 36 or 38 needle until it holds its shape. Shape and firmness are decided here; color only covers what the core already is.
- Wool
- core wool or carded batting
- Needle
- size 36 or 38, triangle or star
Pull off a strip of core wool, roll it up as tightly as you can and hold the end down while you stab it in place with a coarse needle, size 36 or 38. Keep turning the piece so it firms up evenly from all sides. Stabbing one spot makes a dent; rolling loosely leaves a soft center. How to needle felt covers the basic stroke and how to needle felt a ball is the first shape to practice.
Add wool in thin layers to build the shape up, and felt each layer in before the next. Parts that will be joined later, such as a head or a leg, are left loose and fluffy at the joining end, so those fibers can be felted into the body. Pieces that must bend or stand get a wire frame inside: the armature wire chart gives wire sizes.
The usual question is when to stop. A core is ready when it is firm to the touch and holds its shape when squeezed: how firm needle felting should be describes the test. It takes longer than beginners expect, about 20 to 40 minutes for a ball and 2 to 4 hours for a small animal. Lumps and dents are easier to fix now than under a colored coat: see why needle felting is lumpy.
Ready to move on when: The shape is right, the piece is firm to the touch and it holds its shape when squeezed, with no soft center.
Common mistakes at this stage
- Rolling the wool loosely and trying to fix a soft center from the outside.
- Stabbing one spot instead of turning the piece.
- Adding color before the core is firm.